After a brief stopover in Lilongwe on Friday night, we spent Saturday morning in the villages of the Mzimba district in north-central Malawi. Our guide, Gertrude Mkandawire, a Member of Parliament from the area, gave us an intimate look at the cultural traditions practiced in the region. As we arrived in the village, dancers and drummers dotted the hillsides from villages in all directions, preparing for the festival that awaited us. We anxiously set up our equipment, excited to see the ingoma and vimbuza dances.
The ingoma is a warrior dance practiced across southern and eastern Africa. Originally a tradition of South Africa’s Zulu warrior tribe, the ingoma spread across the continent as rival Zulu factions fled north, fearing persecution from the ruthless Zulu king, Shaka Zulu. In Malawi, these Zulu descendants settled in the north, forming the Ngoni tribe. The Ngoni still practice the ingoma today, a proud remnant of a warrior culture. The dance itself is a show of strength, a representation of the tribe’s pride and might. As such, dancers adorn themselves with prized animal skins and carry weapons and shields while performing. The entire scene was awe-inspiring, a ritual with historical depth that’s difficult to fully appreciate.
Equally impressive was the power of the mystical vimbuza, a traditional healing dance used to exorcise evil spirits from those afflicted by psychological ailments. Drummers and singers surround the possessed individual, arousing internal spirits until they take control of the victim’s body and dance their way out of their host. The rhythm’s spiritual underpinnings are said to be indiscriminate, arousing spirits within innocent bystanders and bringing them into the fray. Fortunately, none of us were possessed and stuck to our jobs behind the cameras, grabbing some incredible footage in the process. It was an exhausting dance to watch and was surely all-consuming for its performers. After the dance concluded, we packed the Land Rover and headed two hours north to visit the great Wambali Mkandawire in Mzuzu.
A 2007 recipient of the LUSO Lifetime Achievement Award as an international ambassador of Malawian culture, Wambali’s music career spans four decades of tremendous accolades. Born in the Congo to Malawian parents, he was introduced to Afro-jazz brought back from South Africa by his uncle. He then decided to move full time to South Africa, successfully launching a career as an international Afro-jazz artist. He’s produced albums on world-renown record labels, including Sony/BMG, and toured Europe and North America extensively throughout his career, spending extended time performing across Canada.
A sample from the legendary Wambali Mkandawire
Wambali charismatically shared his own personal story and his ideas on the role of music in Malawian culture and shifting trends within music production across the continent. He also spoke fondly of memories singing against apartheid across South Africa, using music to bridge cultural divides and speak out against the government’s harsh tactics and policies. After two hours lost in conversation, we motored over to Nkhata Bay to spend another relaxing night on the lakeshore.
Sunday morning we caught up with Gasper Nali, a talented self-taught traditional musician from Nkhata Bay. Nali’s unique sound stems from the babatone, his self-made, one-stringed instrument played with a metal baton and a glass bottle used as a slide. He combines the babatone with a floor bass drum (also self-made) and a crisp, clear voice to produce a rich Kwaito/Gospel blend. His sound is like nothing I’ve ever heard, distinctly Malawian, and a perfect example of the traditional elements that are disappearing from the music here.
After recording two songs with Gasper, we made the nine hour haul from Nkhata Bay back to Blantyre, where we’ll again spend the week interviewing musicians and going back through film to review our progress so far. Keep us in your thoughts, and thanks to everyone for reading!




















